Many years ago, when the Durgapur Expressway had not been laid out, the Grand Trunk Road, also Dilli Road, was the main arterial route as one travelled from Bardhaman to Calcutta via Shaktigarh (of the over rated lyangcha fame), Memari, Devipur, Bainchi, Mogra, etc.The journeys were punctuated by a few bovine and canine hurdles, one brief, throw -a -coin roadside mandir stopover around Devipur, and a few level crossings where, depending on the season, you could buy cucumber or roasted maize from young boys and girls.
But my favourite stretch was the one which bisected miles of banana orchards in Hooghly district.
The banana tree is actually not quite a spectacular one but when thousands grow side by side , the look is so refreshing. After rains, the leaves shine and sway with gay abandon, like women in their saawan best. Hundreds of maroon coloured inflorescences or mochas and fruit bunches or kolar kandi convey a sense of heightened fecundity which is emblematic of the land and its people. The GT Road evoked a strong sense of history, our children had still not come to the world, the Willys jeep looked more spacious,we travelled canvasses rolled up, the air redolent with the smell of soil, of paddy and mustard, of rain on parched land, and even of firewood and cow dung smoke wafting across in diaphanous sheets from the village hearths.
The banana tree is actually not quite a spectacular one but when thousands grow side by side , the look is so refreshing. After rains, the leaves shine and sway with gay abandon, like women in their saawan best. Hundreds of maroon coloured inflorescences or mochas and fruit bunches or kolar kandi convey a sense of heightened fecundity which is emblematic of the land and its people. The GT Road evoked a strong sense of history, our children had still not come to the world, the Willys jeep looked more spacious,we travelled canvasses rolled up, the air redolent with the smell of soil, of paddy and mustard, of rain on parched land, and even of firewood and cow dung smoke wafting across in diaphanous sheets from the village hearths.
But recently when I turned into this road, taking a right turn before Dankuni, I was in for a major disappointment. Beginning from the turn itself, on either side of the road, cocking a snook at all rules and regulations, stood, in severe disorderliness, ugly looking garages with their vehicles and mechanics in different stages of undress.A large number of tea- paan- bidi-gutka and bicycle repair shops, roadside eateries - all liberally serviced with child labour- had sprouted up. Further down, a few factories had come up with their high boundary walls, trussed and tinned sheds. Clearly, these had eaten up a substantial portion of the banana orchards.
The water in the odd pukhur and the water hyacinth covered noyonjalis ( road side canals) looked a dirty black, and at 15 meters above the surface, on leafless branches, the semul or the silk cotton flowers, even in their bloom, appeared to be dull red, brushed with dust. As we travelled down further, a huge stretch was being flattened on the sides as the backhoes of huge, bright yellow coloured JCB loaders, under the careful vigilance of fluorescent red and silver jacketed workers, went about their work with quiet but efficient insensitivity, uprooting trees and filling up the noyonjalis- snuffing out life and removing the shades. So it was with a sense of foreboding that I soldiered on for a job that is one of the most unpleasant.
I turned left into Sahaganj, motored down a decrepit bazaar, and was struck by a general air of melancholy as I entered into a colony.This was the Dunlop factory premise, where once were manufactured aircraft tyres- now closed for over a decade. The whole atmosphere was one of dispute. Disputed severance packets, disputed claims, infact a disputed destiny. It was in this setting that I alighted and walked in to meet the widow of a constable who had died a week ago in an IED blast triggered by the Maoists in Chhattisgarh.
It was good that I did not meet her at first. I am still at loss for words to face the widows in such situations even though I have been meeting them for quite some time now, the latest being when a colleague had died, across that lazy River Morora, next to a knoll near the dreaded Chakarbandha area , in Gaya district, to an IED blast. As the twenty odd people came forward, I could easily make out the immediate family by the tonsured heads of an old man of nearly seventy and a young lad of six to seven years - the father and son. The boy had a sister, about three years older. The girl appeared to be exceptionally bright, and even cheerful. The enormity of death of their father had probably not dawned upon them and when thrust forward towards me, they animatedly answered my polite questions on school and friends and pranks and games. I gained time to prepare myself to meet the one person who understood it so well .
I stepped aside to enter the house, part of a row of ten such houses, each of two small rooms with no sunshine, an aangan, a kitchen and a toilet. Young, almost thirty, now a bit composed in her grief after a week of wailing, head covered with a dupatta which hid her vermillion- less hair, hands on the the heads of her two children, wistfully gazing at the photographs of her late husband which were peering down at us in the proudest khakis, she spoke not a word about what she had lost. Her father- in - law talked. I listened, I consoled, I comforted. I assured. I gave my telephone number. I came out.
More words of comfort, a few cheques to the parents and the widow. More assurances. A final running of my hands over the children's heads, a holding of hands with the father, a few instructions to my service colleagues, commiserating with the local ward commissioner and other close relatives , and I was off, musing over the request of my Deputy Commandant about not disclosing to the outside world the compensation amount. How correct he was about his apprehension.
There could even be attempts to marry her off , probably against her will, to her late husband's younger brotherso as to keep the money in the family. After all the unwedded sister had to be married off. The widow was no more the daughter in - law or the sister-in-law. She was a bank account. Or probably I was being unduly pessimistic.
Those wistful, inconsolable eyes; the "whys" and "hows" will all haunt anyone who reads this. Couldn't have been a better tribute on "Happy Women's Day"!
ReplyDeleteThe pain expressed is so palpable. Hats off!
ReplyDeletePoignant. The changing times - from the vast orchards to the dusty roads well painted. Human relations at mercy of changing paradigms subtly told. Sad but true. Good read Mr.Sahay.
ReplyDeleteWhat a journey!!..Seeing the without then seeing the within. Both of them gives rise to questions...leading then onto the next journey. Vivek...keep the journey going.
ReplyDeleteThanks for sharing.
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ReplyDelete...when the leaves in their gay abandon shine and sway, like women in their Saawan best...and then the withering of one such leaf! Had misty eyes walking down the lane!!! Hats off to your writing Vivek!!
ReplyDelete...when the leaves shine and sway in their gay abandon, like the women in their Saawan best...and then the withering of one such leaf! Had misty eyes walking down the lane!!! Hat's off to your writing Vivek...
ReplyDeleteThis is one article which has many emotions packed into one. It brought back the vivid pictures in my mind from childhood summer vacation days - traveling by the Barddhaman-Howrah Main or Chord line locals, whose colors were probably green to camouflage with the surroundings. The point you brought out about the compensation is truly a challenge - the legal system and governance goes only so far and the social order picks up in decent form only when the financial pressures are somewhat met. This was my first reading of a Sunday morning and it was the best start I could have.
ReplyDeleteHow beautifully you have interwoven two strands Vivek, both emblematic of death and decay. One of a vibrant, comforting and comfortable lifestyle yielding place to the industrial Frankenstein and the other of a family , sailing along so happily, shattered by an event cataclysmic not only in taking away the axial member but also by the forebodings of greed prevailing upon human values. All so familiar, all so familiar. But it takes the ink from a pen like yours to seep into the paper of consciousness. May it remain blessed.
ReplyDeleteBeautifully written Vivek. Your words potray not just an observant eye but also a caring heart. These words and thoughts will remain with me for a long long time. May God give the young widow stength to face the many challenges and live her life with dignity.
ReplyDeleteVery poignant, and very nicely written, sir.
ReplyDeleteLovely observation, Sir! And specially the harsh fact that such widows become the "Bank Account' for the immediate family. After that, no one follows her story...
ReplyDeleteits all about money!! thats where it begins and thats where it ends!!
ReplyDeleteAh! the memory of the closed phatak at the railway crossings is another thing altogether..,cucumber slices smeared with grainy salt and chilli powder during summer months and bhutta rubbed in salted lemon during winters..,I wonder if they still sell them? More importantly, do they taste the same?
ReplyDeleteComforting bereaved families is a tough job and to be able to do that with empathy is tougher still.
Wonderfully descriptive is the word picture and Hooghly tales could not be better told.
Very Nicely written & highly descriptive....Mr.Sahay, as I always say, you have a Great future in world of letters...!!!
ReplyDeleteThere used to be a phatak between Sindri and Govindpur which we would cross en route Neamatpur, - day trip to my grandparents as my dad went to Burnpur. The gates were always closed. The driver would just stick his neck out and say, "mahatoda, khulo hei" and the bars would magically go up and we would cross. Later my younger brother did the sticking the neck out thing when we went on dad's own car with no Gopalda. The gates would open still.
ReplyDeleteYour poignant post just opened several floodgates. Thank you so much.
Visiting a bereaved family invariably involves talking about death...grief... loss, and in such cases... the future. A very uneasy position to be in. If you are the sensitive type, yes the heart misses a beat while entering the room. Misses several beats during the conversation. Looking at how some of these people are able to come to terms with their grief is also very enlightening, humbling and their robustness leaves you with the warm feeling that all is not lost.
ReplyDeleteVery well written. Keep expressing. When we write we invariably teach our ownselves so many things.
Amazing memory you have.... I am awestruck must say. An official condolence visit laments all that no longer exists ..... if picturesque roadways have made way for losy garages.... so have family relationships made way for calculative dynamics to redefine them ... what amazes me is your clear and crisp memory of Willy jeep rides with rolled up canvases.. cucumber and roasted maize.at crossings... they r still there at places
ReplyDeletebut our children don't demand a savouring experience and prefer the readily available packaged chips and wafer..healthy packaging of unhealthy food.... talk of government compensation deciding family dynamics
Really Vivek, this is so touching indeed.....your writing thrives in details and descriptions: both within and without. The subtle but vivid observations in the imagery are wonderful.
ReplyDeleteComing from a cop, they are a pointer to your turning a pro someday.
jab Deshmein thi Diwali
ReplyDeleteWoh khel rahe the Holi
Jab hum baithe the gharon mein
Woh jhel rahe the goli....... i just wish and pray, our so called politicians understand the grief of such veer jawans and their families who are still not backing up to send their sons in the service to nation, really do something good for the nation and forget their greed for money and power.