Ya devi sarbabhuteshshu, Shakti roopena sansthita
Namasteshwai Namasteshwai Namasteshwai namo namaha."
Even though early, the Puja is surely in. My wife says that New
Market is chock- a -block filled up with 'shop-till-droppers'. Almost every alternate day she preens around with her collection of saris she has gathered over the past few months. The Sharadiya Sales banners are splashed across the malls, Gariahat and Hatibagan, Kankurgachhi and Sakher Bazar. I am receiving requests from friends for booking guest houses for a family getaway. I, too, have already made a plan for a brief pre-puja trip to Mandarmoni with my family on 28th instant.

Actually, nothing changes much but I still enjoy the routine. Like previous years, I have managed to get myself invited to a pandal judging panel on the saptami . The ashtami lunch invitation will come, shortly . At our old Ballygunje Circular Road pandal , the final visit will be on Dashami for Sindoor khela and the revelry at night after bhasan at Babu Ghaat. A large number of Bengalis leave for a holiday, many claim they like to stay back for their para pujo but still the snakes of crowd at the pandals get longer year after year and the roadside eateries and balloon stalls continue to do good business.
I love to read the newspapers which carry out interesting trivia and stories connected with Durga Puja.
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My family awaits the Phulpati procession - 1999 |
worship of the Devi in Darjeeling - a place where I lived for close to two years in the last years of the previous millennium. The Nepalese celebrate it as Bara Dasain. Preparations start on Mahalaya with sowing of wheat and barley in mud beds on Jamara Aunsi and placing copper pitchers in a ritual called Ghat Sthapana. To me, the the Dasai celebrations are remembered for three things- the Phulpati procession of Kanya Devis and the Lakhey dance ( and one of the bigger would also touch the SP's residence at Campbell Cottage from where it could be moved only after a nudge with gifts of rum bottles), the Maar on the Navami at Dali, the Police lines and for the huge, colourful tikka ( rice grains, curd and sin door) people sport on their foreheads on Dasain.
The paper also brought out a feature on the Tribal Durga or Guptamoni, meaning 'secret treasure' but implying' hidden goddess' of Jhargram- also a guardian deity of motorists on NH6. In addition to being hidden, her puja is also rendered unique by the fact that it was started by a Lodha woman and the hymns are sung in Bengali, not Sanskrit. A part of the colourful 'Little India' tradition, the Devi here is worshipped throughout the year and devotees hang up terracotta toy horses and strung on thread to fulfil their wishes.

Way back in 1975, Nirode Mazumdar created the idols for Bakul Bagan community Durga Puja in South Kolkata and it set a trend for famous artists to follow in his footsteps - Rathin Maitra and Paritosh Sen, Ramananda Bandopadhyaya and now Paresh Maity. On Saptami when I visit the pandals, I shall be hearing a large number of extremely talented artists explain their art and theme of the pandals. Bengal is an artisanal society- this forcefully bursts out during the pooja. Some old timers may feel a stab of nostalgia for the simplicity of old day but in my view, a puja which actually began as a celebratory tamasha cannot look back and will keep on getting more opulent.
There is an interesting tidbit about idol making. A few artisans like Mahadeb Pal , to beat the economies of the Kumartuli works , took to painting the eyes for other artisans. Sad, happy, or angry - after all, the eyes of an idol become the mirror of her mind. Nowadays, Mahadeb even goes to neighbouring Bihar and Jharkhand. Just to paint the eyes of Ma.

Shortly thereafter was an interesting talk on Durga by Indrajit Chowhdhury of Ananda Bazar Patrika, whose erudite presentation even the rains could not mar as the bunch of young people, mostly NIFT students, relocated to a staircase to listen. He informed that out of the 70 different idols and terra cotta and wooden figurines of Durga discovered in medieval- early modern Bengal, only ten depicted her vahan as a singha or lion while in large number, the demon mahishasur was depicted only as a buffalo or mahish and not in its humanised form of a rakhshas.
But quite inexplicably, when some,like the Sovabazar and Krishnagar zamindars started the Durga Puja in the 18th /19th century, the vahan depicted was not a lion but a stylised horse!! Being prodded, Indrajit hazarded a guess that it could be due to the local artisans' ignorance of the looks of a lion which was absent in Bengal. Later on I asked some of my Bengali friends, but even the combined knowledge of two generations could not throw any light.
So even as Ma Durga comes on a boat and departs in a palki, I have decided to do two things I haven't done despite my so many years in Kolkata- go to the Hooghly on Mahalaya to watch the tarpan and also to Tiritti Bazaar at the crack of dawn for a Chinese breakfast. Who wants to join us?
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